It’s incredible how your perspective on a place changes with a) time, and b) the weather! The first time I landed in Yangon, I had no idea what to expect from Myanmar. How much do things cost? How far is the airport from the city centre? Where can I stay overnight, and where can’t I? Also, I was terrified as it was tipping it down and I had no idea how far anything is from anything else. The first time, I paid too much to take a slow way into the city from the airport.
But this time, as I witnessed the sun rise to signal the start of a scorching day in Burma’s second city, I was prepared.
The bus deposited me gracelessly at the highway bus station just outside of Yangon. It’s miles from the city centre, but I knew that. I ignored the hordes of gentlemen offering taxis to the city centre (or the pagoda, strangely – why anybody would want to go there whilst carrying 3 bags I have no idea) and opted to hop onto the back of a motorbike, who would take me to the nearest train station. From there I managed to get into Yangon for $1 total, which was a serious improvement on the $12 it cost me a couple of weeks ago!
Arriving at the hostel, I dumped my bags and decided that I would while away my day walking around the Bogyoke park, which features a huge beautiful lake in the centre.
Despite still being early, the sun was beating down. As I passed the various street food vendors and sweated increasingly, I snacked on fruit, tiny chicken eggs, doughnut thingies and 3-in-1 mix coffee. Here’s a chance to show you guys some Burmese street food!:
I also paused to shoot the train station from a new angle:
Yangon’s railway station Circular lines
The whole journey, I hoped the shade of trees and the water would provide some relief from the heat.
Turns out my thoughts were dead on, and after a 45 minute stroll through the sun, stepping into the shade and cool, misty breeze from the water was so refreshing I felt slightly emotional. I’d really recommend this park if you’re looking to spend some time doing not much in nice surroundings:
Kandawgyi Lake, Bogyoke Park Topiary! Wooden walkway – leading to Schwedagon Panoramic Enjoying a cold one by the lake Fresh as. “Sepak Takraw” View of the Karaweik Palace
The park’s lake is spotted with wooden walkways connecting the various islands and peninsulas. They wind lazily just above the water level, enhancing the perspectives and reflections of the semi-formal park foliage. It’s a nice touch which adds a unique and beautiful quality to the park – far flung from the dust and sweat of central Yangon. I easily whiled away an afternoon, enjoying the sights, watching some guys playing some “Sepak takraw”, which is like volleyball, but you’re only allowed to hit the ball with your feet and head! I also got a good view of the Karaweik Palace, but wasn’t too fussed about going in.
Having circled the entire park, I wandered slowly back towards the hostel to cool off, taking a few shots of the colonial, concrete and eclectic buildings around Yangon. I particularly enjoyed resting a few moments in the Saint Mary Church, another large and impressive Anglican church built by colonials. It’s beautifully cool, clean and spacious, amplified by its snug spot in the centre of choking downtown Yangon. A true sanctuary for the mind and body:
Yangon’s staple accommodation Satellite is more reliable than domestic The wildly out of place Rose Garden Hotel Monasterial intrusions… Anglican churches everywhere! St Mary’s Church The nave Impressive staining
After resting up, processing a few photos (this blog takes a lot of time!!), to finish my stay in Myanmar, I hit the streets with a couple of gentlemen from the hostel and snapped up a few more shots of the foods:
So much choice. Hot stuff! Durian-durian. Fresh cut pineapple. B-e-a-utiful.
Goodbye, Yangon!
Waking up early the next day for the airport, a good chunk of me was glad that I was leaving the muggy, smelly streets of Myanmar. Myanmar, where restaurants sit you on plastic buckets and you get a better shower from the rain than you do from a real shower. Myanmar, where WiFi is sketchy everywhere, but 4G costs pennies. Myanmar, where they don’t do black coffee, even though they grow the beans. *sigh*. Despite its frustrations, the country is incredibly beautiful and charming, and as the airport attendants smiled and the sun graced the shiny aerofoils of my plane, a smile crossed my face and my heart twisted as though saying goodbye to a friend I may never see again. Perhaps I’ll be back someday…
For now, new adventures await!